Belgo-American Restaurant Fraternity Sampling University Avenue

Sampling University Avenue
also known as BARF-SUAVE

Friday, December 31, 2010

On's Kitchen, Thai Cuisine

It was early afternoon on New Year's Eve, and Christian and I decided to treat a publicity-shy friend of ours (we'll call him "Craig") to a University Avenue lunch. We scoped out several possible venues, but we headed for an old favorite (Cafe BonXai) we hadn't visited in a while. At this location (1631 University Ave.), we were surprised to find On's Kitchen. The new owners took over in early December 2010.

"Craig" was pleased to get a shot at some Thai food. In the area near his hometown (we'll pretend it's Washburn, WI), there aren't a lot of Asian food options. On's Kitchen--unlike its Thai-plus-more predecessor, BonXai) specializes exclusively in Thai cuisine. We were the only patrons in the restaurant, but it was 1:30 pm on a pre-holiday afternoon in a newly opened venue.

What a pleasant surprise! Staff in the restaurant couldn't have been nicer, service was prompt, and the food was terrific. Our appetizers (egg rolls with a pad thai sauce and chicken satay with a peanut sauce) had us salivating in no time. After reviewing a menu that included more than 60 salads, soups, and entrees, Christian settled on pad thai ($7.99), Craig had the fried rice (khao pad, $7.99), and I had the spiced pork and rice (khao ka-mu, $8.99). The spiced pork came with hard-boiled eggs and a steaming bowl of soup; the spiciest of its ingredients were on the side and could be blended into the main dish as much or as little as desired. All of us were VERY pleased with our selections. Even "Craig"--whose chosen profession (it may or may not involve a U.S. intelligence agency) usually requires him to be fairly restrained and circumscribed--was downright effusive. We vowed to On's staff that we would spread the word about our new find--which is what we're doing now. Try it soon, and then wander down the block to Axman Surplus (which is how we spent our New Year's Eve afternoon).

Friday, December 10, 2010

Little Szechuan Chinese Cuisine

Little Szechuan opened its doors in October 2006 at 422 University Avenue in the former longtime location of Mai Village after the latter moved to its new home at University and Western. On its website, Little Szechuan proclaims to specialize in the often spicy dishes of the Sichuan Province of China. We were familiar with this restaurant both from previous visits to its dining room and from getting take-out. This was to be our first BARF-SUAVE outing with guest, we were treating our spouses Peggy and Lynn to Friday-night dinner.

Walking into the spacious interior kept in warm ocher tones we were greeted by the friendly maître d' who pointed us to the table behind a faux bamboo hedge where Peggy and Joel were already waiting for us. While I am no expert of Szechuan cuisine, a quick survey of the well-attended restaurant showed that about 75% of the tables were occupied by Chinese guests, including some groups sitting around large, round tables literally bending under the wide assortments of dishes. I took this to mean that the cuisine is finding approval from that population.

When we ordered, we tried to come up with an eclectic selection of dishes. We ordered 15. Dan Dan Noodle (#15, $4.95) and Dry Sautéed Green Beans (#164, $9.95) for appetizers followed by main dishes of Chung King Chili Chicken (# 103 $10.95), Quick Fried Crispy Fish Fillet (#62, $12.95), Spicy Mussel in Black Bean Sauce (#57, $14.95) and Beef Ribs. We also had tea.

Our appetizers came quickly, the heaping plate of green beans and bowl of noodles did not last long. The green beans were just how I like them, done, with just a hint of crunch left in them (beans "al dente?"). I find steamed green beans that are barely past raw highly distasteful and fortunately those offered here did not fall in this category. Both beans and noodles were nicely flavored with garlic and soy sauce, neither too overpowering. I found myself tempted to pick up the sautéed morsels of minced garlic left after the appetizers were gone, but because I was in polite company, I minded my manners.

Half the fun of eating at a Chinese restaurant is the way the dishes and family-style serving lend themselves to sharing. Everyone was able to try ample helpings of the four menu items we ordered.

I loved the crispy fish I had picked out. It was mildly spiced, thus the freshness of the vegetable oil used for deep frying was apparent. The fish was light and crunchy and mouthwateringly good. Definitely a dish I will order again.

The chili chicken was excellent, too. With a name like this, I would have expected it to be spicier, but for my palate, it had just the right amount of fire. The chicken pieces were moist and tender.

The spiciest dish of our diner was the spicy mussels in black bean sauce. The mussels were served on the half shell. The sauce was a poultice that seemed to have been spread over the open shell prior to sautéing. In the sauce, I recognized slices of green chili peppers, about one per mussel. it looked like  Others in our party thought that the heat took away from the flavor. I was not convinced as I was still able to distinguish the mussels' very own aroma. If something took away from my enjoyment was the fact that some mussels were not quite done. I know that opinions differ on shellfish but for me at least, it's either raw or cooked just right, i.e. not too much and not too little.

The ribs were juicy and delicious but their flavoring could not match that of the other dishes.

Service was excellent. very friendly and efficient, especially since our waitress had a number of other tables. I recall being impressed with the staff at previous visits, too.

All in all a wonderful evening with delicious food in excellent company.


Saturday, December 4, 2010

Best Steak House, University and Victoria

Ever since the beginning of BARF-SUAVE, Christian has been lobbying for a trip to Best Steak House at 860 University Avenue. Not that I needed much convincing. When I was in graduate school nearly 30 years ago, the BSH in Dinkytown was a regular (and affordable) stop. I seem to recall getting a steakburger dinner (lettuce salad, grilled ground beef, baked potato, and slab of Texas toast) for under $3 back then. For years, there was a BSH in Roseville on Lexington Avenue, just north of Larpenteur, and we made regular family treks there. I recall my son--in high school at the time--requesting a trip to the Maplewood BSH (on Rice Street) for his birthday.
Always inviting, on a cold winter night ...

But somehow I had never set foot in the University Avenue BSH. Nor had Christian, despite driving past it hundreds of times to drop kids off at school. So, we picked a snowy Friday night to check it out. Stepping in the door, we were immediately greeted by the proprietor/griller. I wasn't surprised later to see the following statement at the restaurant's Web site: "We try to remember that every person who walks through our door is a potential friend, and eventually, a member of our family."

From past BSH visits, the menu and format were familiar. Slide your tray along the cafeteria-style line; retrieve your bowl of iceberg lettuce salad from behind the glass sliding doors (I swear that the self-serve bacon bits, croutons, and dressing options are identical to the ones that BSHs have offered since my Dinkytown days); place your entree order; and then wait at a table for staff to deliver it. I had the sirloin steak dinner for $11.99: two huge (and delicious) pieces of steak, of course with a wonderfully crunchy baked potato, and TWO slabs of Texas toast. (In previous BSH visits, I've never before received two pieces of toast!) I fondly recall the Cokes at the Dinkytown BSH served with finely crushed ice; I miss that, but I didn't come here for the ice. Christian seemed to thoroughly enjoy his "holiday special" steak and shrimp dinner ($10.99), although I think the term "Texas toast" had not previously entered his English lexicon. He vowed to return with his sons very soon.

Return visit with the sons, James and Colin on Jan 12, 2011. The sirloin, rare,
was a hit with the boys and both were impressed with the friendly staff.
Colin said he'll go back with some friends, soon.
The restaurant was festive for the holidays, with red garland surrounding each window and picture frame. It's hard to beat the warmth of BSH's staff and the reasonable prices--ranging from $5.25 for a steakburger dinner to $15.75 for a T-bone dinner, with varying nightly dinner specials. This BSH has been owned by the same family for 25 years, and I hope they continue the tradition for years to come.