Big Daddy's BBQ

Big Daddy's BBQ is a St. Paul institutions which has seen a few locations. It started out as a food trailer, moved to the Depot, Downtown St. Paul, then to University Ave, just east of Dale to its current location, still University, now just West of Dale, across from the Rondo Library. I have to say I'm missing buying my ribs in the old building adjacent to the old Frogtown St. Paul Police precinct building, and then eating it while leaning against some stand-up picnic tables in the hot parking lot next to the smokers staffed by sweaty men. Observing the alchemy of marinated sides of beef and pork be transmuted into sumptuous food was as much part of the eating experience as listening to the friendly banter between customers, staff and passer-bys. A definite downside of this setup was the fact that Big Daddy's was strictly a seasonal experience, i.e. during the warm months.

After the NE corner of University and Dale fell to the wrecking ball (the new building is almost complete but does not look like it will ever house a bbq), Big Daddy's was left high and dry for a while, and searching for a new location. Fortunately, this hiatus coincided with the winter months and Big Daddy's reopened in its current location at 625 University Ave.

Pork and I go way back. The dairy farmers in my old neighborhood in Belgium would often fatten up a couple of pigs for the larder. Come October, a butcher from town would come to slaughter the tasty creatures. My grandma would send me over with a big bowl to get the butcher to capture the blood from the stuck sow. I was under specific instructions to return home on the double, so the precious liquid would not have a chance to coagulate. She then transformed into delicious blood sausage, dark maroon in color, with white chunks of bacon.

And then there was the instance when our physics teacher told us about the value of smoking. In 1975 or so, the Belgian Ministry of Education decided in its infinite wisdom that smoking should be banned from in the classroom. Like Minnesota bar patrons, the smoking segment of the Belgian teacher population were not altogether happy. Especially those who, like my 7th grade history teacher had fingers that were stained yellow from their habit, tried to resist the change as long as possible. Those among them who had at most one or two years till retirement were the most reticent. In that latter category fell Monsieur Petit, in spite of his name a tall man with a shock of white hair and as passionate about imparting to us the science of physics as he was about his Belga Reds without filter. I was in his sophomore class, along with a few of my fellow students, including a certain young woman, a little padded around the edges, a teacher's brat and a Ms. Know-it-All. As Mr. Petit lit one of his beloved Belgas on the still glimmering butt of the previous one, she had the audacity to inteject "Mr. Petit, don't you know that you can't smoke here any longer?" Mr. Petit took a deep drag from his fresh smoke and exhaled towards the ceiling. Then he ambled towards her and came to a stop, facing her across a tall lab table. He leaned forward, took another deep drag from his Belga and blew the smoke into her face. As she was snapping for air, fanning the air between them with her hands, he said "Didn't you know that only the best pieces of pork are smoked?"

I am glad to report that the smokers at Big Daddy's are fed with a substrate that impart a rather more appetizing aroma than tobacco, instead, hickory is used.  The meat is cooked slowly and leaves the smoker/grill when the meat is so soft that it simply falls of the bones and melts in the mouth.

We ordered half a rack of beef and half a rack of pork with a side of collard greens and one of potato salad. We sat facing University Ave chomping down our meal. The beef ribs were uncharacteristically dry, maybe just to emphasize the delicious succulence of the pork. Based on my early experience with pork, that is my meat of choice anyway, and it is cheaper by a few bucks as well. The collard greens and potato salad round out the dining experience. Highly recommended!

As a Belgian I had to ask whether Big Daddy would be adding fries again. The answer was a simple no. When they moved in at the new location, they had less room, because the smokers had to be moved indoors. A poll amongst their clientèle, bbq OR fries had the overwhelming outcome in favor of BBQ.