On's Kitchen, Thai Cuisine

It was early afternoon on New Year's Eve, and Christian and I decided to treat a publicity-shy friend of ours (we'll call him "Craig") to a University Avenue lunch. We scoped out several possible venues, but we headed for an old favorite (Cafe BonXai) we hadn't visited in a while. At this location (1631 University Ave.), we were surprised to find On's Kitchen. The new owners took over in early December 2010.

"Craig" was pleased to get a shot at some Thai food. In the area near his hometown (we'll pretend it's Washburn, WI), there aren't a lot of Asian food options. On's Kitchen--unlike its Thai-plus-more predecessor, BonXai) specializes exclusively in Thai cuisine. We were the only patrons in the restaurant, but it was 1:30 pm on a pre-holiday afternoon in a newly opened venue.

What a pleasant surprise! Staff in the restaurant couldn't have been nicer, service was prompt, and the food was terrific. Our appetizers (egg rolls with a pad thai sauce and chicken satay with a peanut sauce) had us salivating in no time. After reviewing a menu that included more than 60 salads, soups, and entrees, Christian settled on pad thai ($7.99), Craig had the fried rice (khao pad, $7.99), and I had the spiced pork and rice (khao ka-mu, $8.99). The spiced pork came with hard-boiled eggs and a steaming bowl of soup; the spiciest of its ingredients were on the side and could be blended into the main dish as much or as little as desired. All of us were VERY pleased with our selections. Even "Craig"--whose chosen profession (it may or may not involve a U.S. intelligence agency) usually requires him to be fairly restrained and circumscribed--was downright effusive. We vowed to On's staff that we would spread the word about our new find--which is what we're doing now. Try it soon, and then wander down the block to Axman Surplus (which is how we spent our New Year's Eve afternoon).

Little Szechuan Chinese Cuisine

Little Szechuan opened its doors in October 2006 at 422 University Avenue in the former longtime location of Mai Village after the latter moved to its new home at University and Western. On its website, Little Szechuan proclaims to specialize in the often spicy dishes of the Sichuan Province of China. We were familiar with this restaurant both from previous visits to its dining room and from getting take-out. This was to be our first BARF-SUAVE outing with guest, we were treating our spouses Peggy and Lynn to Friday-night dinner.

Walking into the spacious interior kept in warm ocher tones we were greeted by the friendly maître d' who pointed us to the table behind a faux bamboo hedge where Peggy and Joel were already waiting for us. While I am no expert of Szechuan cuisine, a quick survey of the well-attended restaurant showed that about 75% of the tables were occupied by Chinese guests, including some groups sitting around large, round tables literally bending under the wide assortments of dishes. I took this to mean that the cuisine is finding approval from that population.

When we ordered, we tried to come up with an eclectic selection of dishes. We ordered 15. Dan Dan Noodle (#15, $4.95) and Dry Sautéed Green Beans (#164, $9.95) for appetizers followed by main dishes of Chung King Chili Chicken (# 103 $10.95), Quick Fried Crispy Fish Fillet (#62, $12.95), Spicy Mussel in Black Bean Sauce (#57, $14.95) and Beef Ribs. We also had tea.

Our appetizers came quickly, the heaping plate of green beans and bowl of noodles did not last long. The green beans were just how I like them, done, with just a hint of crunch left in them (beans "al dente?"). I find steamed green beans that are barely past raw highly distasteful and fortunately those offered here did not fall in this category. Both beans and noodles were nicely flavored with garlic and soy sauce, neither too overpowering. I found myself tempted to pick up the sautéed morsels of minced garlic left after the appetizers were gone, but because I was in polite company, I minded my manners.

Half the fun of eating at a Chinese restaurant is the way the dishes and family-style serving lend themselves to sharing. Everyone was able to try ample helpings of the four menu items we ordered.

I loved the crispy fish I had picked out. It was mildly spiced, thus the freshness of the vegetable oil used for deep frying was apparent. The fish was light and crunchy and mouthwateringly good. Definitely a dish I will order again.

The chili chicken was excellent, too. With a name like this, I would have expected it to be spicier, but for my palate, it had just the right amount of fire. The chicken pieces were moist and tender.

The spiciest dish of our diner was the spicy mussels in black bean sauce. The mussels were served on the half shell. The sauce was a poultice that seemed to have been spread over the open shell prior to sautéing. In the sauce, I recognized slices of green chili peppers, about one per mussel. it looked like  Others in our party thought that the heat took away from the flavor. I was not convinced as I was still able to distinguish the mussels' very own aroma. If something took away from my enjoyment was the fact that some mussels were not quite done. I know that opinions differ on shellfish but for me at least, it's either raw or cooked just right, i.e. not too much and not too little.

The ribs were juicy and delicious but their flavoring could not match that of the other dishes.

Service was excellent. very friendly and efficient, especially since our waitress had a number of other tables. I recall being impressed with the staff at previous visits, too.

All in all a wonderful evening with delicious food in excellent company.

Best Steak House, University and Victoria

Ever since the beginning of BARF-SUAVE, Christian has been lobbying for a trip to Best Steak House at 860 University Avenue. Not that I needed much convincing. When I was in graduate school nearly 30 years ago, the BSH in Dinkytown was a regular (and affordable) stop. I seem to recall getting a steakburger dinner (lettuce salad, grilled ground beef, baked potato, and slab of Texas toast) for under $3 back then. For years, there was a BSH in Roseville on Lexington Avenue, just north of Larpenteur, and we made regular family treks there. I recall my son--in high school at the time--requesting a trip to the Maplewood BSH (on Rice Street) for his birthday.

Always inviting, on a cold winter night ...

But somehow I had never set foot in the University Avenue BSH. Nor had Christian, despite driving past it hundreds of times to drop kids off at school. So, we picked a snowy Friday night to check it out. Stepping in the door, we were immediately greeted by the proprietor/griller. I wasn't surprised later to see the following statement at the restaurant's Web site: "We try to remember that every person who walks through our door is a potential friend, and eventually, a member of our family."

From past BSH visits, the menu and format were familiar. Slide your tray along the cafeteria-style line; retrieve your bowl of iceberg lettuce salad from behind the glass sliding doors (I swear that the self-serve bacon bits, croutons, and dressing options are identical to the ones that BSHs have offered since my Dinkytown days); place your entree order; and then wait at a table for staff to deliver it. I had the sirloin steak dinner for $11.99: two huge (and delicious) pieces of steak, of course with a wonderfully crunchy baked potato, and TWO slabs of Texas toast. (In previous BSH visits, I've never before received two pieces of toast!) I fondly recall the Cokes at the Dinkytown BSH served with finely crushed ice; I miss that, but I didn't come here for the ice. Christian seemed to thoroughly enjoy his "holiday special" steak and shrimp dinner ($10.99), although I think the term "Texas toast" had not previously entered his English lexicon. He vowed to return with his sons very soon.

Return visit with the sons, James and Colin on Jan 12, 2011. The sirloin, rare,
was a hit with the boys and both were impressed with the friendly staff.
Colin said he'll go back with some friends, soon.

The restaurant was festive for the holidays, with red garland surrounding each window and picture frame. It's hard to beat the warmth of BSH's staff and the reasonable prices--ranging from $5.25 for a steakburger dinner to $15.75 for a T-bone dinner, with varying nightly dinner specials. This BSH has been owned by the same family for 25 years, and I hope they continue the tradition for years to come.

Russian Tea House

The Russian Tea House is in a big old single-family home, just east of the
intersection with Fairview.

This restaurant--in a huge white house at 1758 University Avenue--has been around for decades. I stopped in for a take-out piroshki (a Russian meat pie) nearly 30 years ago and somehow didn't get back until last week. Maybe it had something to do with the restaurant's limited hours: Tuesday to Friday 11 am to 3 pm. But Christian and I made a point of clearing our Friday afternoon schedules so we could pay a visit.

Food to-go or to-stay is ordered at a counter near the entrance, and the eat-in location is a pleasant upstairs room. In fact, one of the things we liked best about the Russian Tea House is its unusual vantage point overlooking University Avenue. There are lots of restaurants on the avenue, but not many where you can have a bird's eye view.

Russian Tea House fare beats Wendy's fast food by a mile, and
then some. We loved the view of University Ave. heading for
downtown Minneapolis!

Fall is a time for comfort food, and the Tea House's beef stroganoff (available on Fridays only) fits the bill. Mmmmm: a beefy sauce with chunks of green pepper ladled over a sort of dumplings called potato veneniki. Christian and I also split a tasty piroshki. Not to take anything away from the piroshki, but it made me wish there was a place in the Twin Cities to get a Cornish pasty (similar to the piroshki, but with onions, turnips, etc. in addition to meat). A steaming cup of tea was the perfect complement to the stroganoff and piroshki, not to mention the Russian teacakes we enjoyed for dessert.

OK, I'm not a fan of the Tea House's styrofoam plates, and the plastic forks were so flimsy they could barely cut a dumpling. But I'm willing to cut the Tea House some slack. It's not a full-service restaurant, but it has survived a long time by filling a unique niche. I'll definitely plan to return a little sooner than I did last time... Joel

Big Daddy's BBQ

Big Daddy's BBQ is a St. Paul institutions which has seen a few locations. It started out as a food trailer, moved to the Depot, Downtown St. Paul, then to University Ave, just east of Dale to its current location, still University, now just West of Dale, across from the Rondo Library. I have to say I'm missing buying my ribs in the old building adjacent to the old Frogtown St. Paul Police precinct building, and then eating it while leaning against some stand-up picnic tables in the hot parking lot next to the smokers staffed by sweaty men. Observing the alchemy of marinated sides of beef and pork be transmuted into sumptuous food was as much part of the eating experience as listening to the friendly banter between customers, staff and passer-bys. A definite downside of this setup was the fact that Big Daddy's was strictly a seasonal experience, i.e. during the warm months.

After the NE corner of University and Dale fell to the wrecking ball (the new building is almost complete but does not look like it will ever house a bbq), Big Daddy's was left high and dry for a while, and searching for a new location. Fortunately, this hiatus coincided with the winter months and Big Daddy's reopened in its current location at 625 University Ave.

Pork and I go way back. The dairy farmers in my old neighborhood in Belgium would often fatten up a couple of pigs for the larder. Come October, a butcher from town would come to slaughter the tasty creatures. My grandma would send me over with a big bowl to get the butcher to capture the blood from the stuck sow. I was under specific instructions to return home on the double, so the precious liquid would not have a chance to coagulate. She then transformed into delicious blood sausage, dark maroon in color, with white chunks of bacon.

And then there was the instance when our physics teacher told us about the value of smoking. In 1975 or so, the Belgian Ministry of Education decided in its infinite wisdom that smoking should be banned from in the classroom. Like Minnesota bar patrons, the smoking segment of the Belgian teacher population were not altogether happy. Especially those who, like my 7th grade history teacher had fingers that were stained yellow from their habit, tried to resist the change as long as possible. Those among them who had at most one or two years till retirement were the most reticent. In that latter category fell Monsieur Petit, in spite of his name a tall man with a shock of white hair and as passionate about imparting to us the science of physics as he was about his Belga Reds without filter. I was in his sophomore class, along with a few of my fellow students, including a certain young woman, a little padded around the edges, a teacher's brat and a Ms. Know-it-All. As Mr. Petit lit one of his beloved Belgas on the still glimmering butt of the previous one, she had the audacity to inteject "Mr. Petit, don't you know that you can't smoke here any longer?" Mr. Petit took a deep drag from his fresh smoke and exhaled towards the ceiling. Then he ambled towards her and came to a stop, facing her across a tall lab table. He leaned forward, took another deep drag from his Belga and blew the smoke into her face. As she was snapping for air, fanning the air between them with her hands, he said "Didn't you know that only the best pieces of pork are smoked?"

I am glad to report that the smokers at Big Daddy's are fed with a substrate that impart a rather more appetizing aroma than tobacco, instead, hickory is used.  The meat is cooked slowly and leaves the smoker/grill when the meat is so soft that it simply falls of the bones and melts in the mouth.

We ordered half a rack of beef and half a rack of pork with a side of collard greens and one of potato salad. We sat facing University Ave chomping down our meal. The beef ribs were uncharacteristically dry, maybe just to emphasize the delicious succulence of the pork. Based on my early experience with pork, that is my meat of choice anyway, and it is cheaper by a few bucks as well. The collard greens and potato salad round out the dining experience. Highly recommended!

As a Belgian I had to ask whether Big Daddy would be adding fries again. The answer was a simple no. When they moved in at the new location, they had less room, because the smokers had to be moved indoors. A poll amongst their clientèle, bbq OR fries had the overwhelming outcome in favor of BBQ.  

Farewell to an Old Friend: Princess Garden

When we moved to St. Paul 25 years ago, we discovered that the Como neighborhood wasn't exactly a restaurant mecca. But one of our early discoveries was a nondescript Szechuan restaurant in a strip mall near Rice and Larpenteur: Princess Garden. Over the years, our family (along with friends and relatives) has eaten many dozens of wonderful takeout dinners from PG. We were guilty of not being very adventurous in trying new menu items... but once we were hooked on our favorites, why change a good thing? Kung pao chicken with a nice kick; the droolworthy plum sauce slathered on thin moo shi pork pancakes; and some of the best eggrolls ever. To top it off, there was Maria, one of the co-owners--a whirling dervish hustling between the kitchen and tables, and one of the most gentle, courteous hosts imaginable. When I called in my phone orders, she rarely had to ask my name. I was surprised when I called in an order last week and Maria didn't answer. I was more surprised when I drove up to the restaurant and saw a "Grand Opening" sign. Inside, I learned that Maria and her husband had retired and turned PG over to new owners. Of course I wish the new owners well, although it'll never be the same. And certainly I wish Maria and her family the best in a well-deserved retirement. But mostly, I'm trying to figure out how to move ahead without Princess Garden's stand-bys (and Maria's hospitality) to look forward to, especially on winter evenings. So, although PG wasn't a University Avenue business, Christian and I offer a BARF-SUAVE salute to Princess Garden's decades of service to hungry patrons.

Trung Nam French Bakery

Yeah, Joel's right on: the Hurricane fencing, the recycled fast-food building, excellent croissants and an iced coffee that will put hair on your chest. Those croissants. When I moved from Belgium to the Twin Cities more than 20 years ago, in St. Paul there was one good bakery (Napoleon's), one place where you could get a good cup of what I call coffee (espresso at Dunn Bros.) and nary a place where a Belgian could buy a decent beer. When Napoleon's closed I almost cried. Things have changed, for the better, mostly. Beer is no longer a problem, Minnesotans have finally learned to brew something other than "lite." Coffee (as opposed to "flower coffee," as my grama used to call the stuff through which you can see the flower pattern at the bottom of your Meissen china cup) is abundant (though I still like Dunn's best), and ther is the Trung Nam's French Bakery. Croissants so fluffy and light, crisp on the outside and slightly chewy within. Just the right amount of filling, not to overpower. And by all means, have the iced coffee, early on a hot, muggy July morning. You'll be awake to taste the croissants.
--Christian

Trung Nam French Bakery, July 5

Christian and I did a quick visit to Trung Nam French Bakery in Frogtown on July 5, 2010. OK, so the ambience leaves a bit to be desired. A restaurant surrounded by chain link fencing doesn't have the most appealing street presence. Reminds us of those years we spent in the gulag, but we try not to dwell on that. And, perhaps it's time to take down the "Popeye's" sign from the side of the building, left over from the building's previous fast food tenure. But this Vietnamese-French bakery has a long history in St. Paul. Years ago, it was in a sad little strip mall near Minnehaha Bowling Alley; Christian thinks it was also on Lexington Ave., just off University Ave. This restaurant survives because it knows how to make a great croissant. It has a few other menu items, including banh mi (a pork sandwich that I recall from a past visit was tasty) and pho, but today we stopped just for croissants and coffee. The filling in the strawberry croissant was minimal, but Christian assures me this is the French tradition. Good bakeries are hard to come by, and University Avenue has lost some over the years--we're hoping this one stays. We'd gladly do forced labor within the confines of this site's fenced perimeter if our daily reward was a meal of Trung Nam croissants. Joel

Joel's Comments on Tay-Ho Visit

Tay-Ho was a perfect first stop for BARF-SUAVE--a solid example of the little jewels University Avenue has to offer. The interior was clean and bright, with green booths, tables, and chairs accented by light from three large, west-facing windows. When Christian and I entered, our hostess/waitress was delayed in the kitchen for a few seconds but practically ran to the front counter to greet us. It was a sign that this is a restaurant that aims to please.

Tay-Ho bills itself as having Vietnamese and Chinese cuisine; we focused on the Vietnamese part of the large menu. We started with orders of lovely spring rolls ($2.95) and crunchy egg rolls ($2.75). Service was extremely speedy--we were still working on the appetizers when our generously-sized main courses arrived. We split the house specialty rice stick soup (Pho Dac Biet, $5.95)--an enormous bowl of flavorful soup, noodles, and thin-sliced beef--and the Com Tam Bi Suon Cha ($6.50)--a plate of grilled pork chops, jullienne-cut pork, and a meat pie on a bed of rice and lettuce. Really delicious, and with portions that provide a truly outstanding value for the money. Tay-Ho would certainly qualify for a return visit from this charter member of BARF-SUAVE.

My overall rating (out of five):
****

The Belgo-American Restaurant Fraternity Samples Tay Ho

Our first sample! I was thinking we should make our way down University, going west from the Capitol an Joel thought we should be more relaxed about the order. We agreed that it should be a place at which neither of us had eaten yet. 

We drove west on University starting at Rice St. Kept our eyes peeled for anything that looked like an eating establishment. Shortly after passing the McDonald's at Rice (fast food chains are off limits), we noticed an inviting-looking Vietnamese restaurant. We did a toke run past Dale and returned to what turned out to be Tay Ho.

The Belgo-American Restaurant Fraternity Sampling University Avenue

Last year during the summer, our then larger group at Thomson-Reuters sampled some restaurants in the wider Eagan vicinity. We went to various places, typically ethnic, like Korean or Japanese, but also good ol' American, like Big Daddy's BBQ, then still on the NE of University and Dale in St. Paul (now it's NW).

BJ, one of the young whippersnappers on the strategy team impressed me with his culinary sense of adventure, his in-depth knowledge of even obscure greasy spoons and his insatiable appetite for more. He is one of the inspirations for this project. The other is the Best Steakhouse on the SW corner of University and Victoria. I must have driven past that corner a thousand times shuttling my kids to or from Capitol Hill school between 1999 and 2010. Despite my curiosity I never went in.

There was the seed of the idea of eating my way up and down University Ave. What I needed was a partner. I mentioned the idea to my lovely spouse, to my surprise she did not take the bait. Instead, she suggested Joel, a perfect choice. A good friend with a good appetite, an iron stomach and a penchant for the weird would be a perfect companion for this endeavor. When I suggested the idea to him, he was on board immediately. We were ready to go and got started.